It’s Asparagus Season – the start of which is officially marked by St George’s Day on 23rd April and ends on Midsummer’s day June 24^th.  Well that’s the official take; the weather of course will have its own way.  Generally, we have around 8 weeks to enjoy the asparagus season.  Freshly grown sweet tender spears, preferably picked that morning – if you can get it!  Your local farm shop will be your best bet.

When I think of asparagus I think of pancetta wrapped around it and a poached or boiled egg to dunk my green and meaty soldiers in.  Although asparagus can be pricey, so I took the same ingredients and went down the risotto route – a main meal, where your asparagus is the still the star of the show.

It’s always worth making your own stock for a risotto – the base flavour of your dish will depend on it.  I put some chopped carrots, spring onion, celery, a couple of bay leaves and the snapped off bases of the asparagus in the pressure cooker with 1.5ltrs of water – 1 hour on high pressure, job done.  Keeps well in the fridge for around five days or put in ice trays and keep for a rainy day.

Check out www.british-asparagus.co.uk for asparagus recipes, tips and info.

If you are looking for a burger recipe for a special occasion, you‘re in the wrong place, check out Heston’s rather complexly written recipe for Burgers here, a little too solid for my liking, due to the added salt and tight packing, though he does use sirloin steak, which of course has a great flavour, though is a little too high a price for what I seek in a burger, frankly I’d rather just have the steak thanks…

I’ll be using skirt steak, also known as flank.  Taken from the forequarter, skirt steak is a lean cut and offers great value for money, although doesn’t lose out on the flavour stakes.   However, this cut is a little on the tough and chewy side, so suits slow cooking, quick pan frying or mincing.  Being a lean cut, you’ll need some fat – for flavour and to keep the burger juicy – ask your butcher and he/she will no doubt throw in a slice for free.

On with the recipe…

Saturday 11th May ~ For the connoisseur and for those who simply enjoy good food and hospitality

The County Hotel in Chelmsford are hosting an evening of fine wines, whisky tasting , generous hospitality, a delicious 3 course meal and the opportunity to enjoy and take part in Sabrage; the art of opening a bottle of champagne with a sabre.

The enthusiastic and knowledgeable hosts for the evening include the whisky ambassador of Diageo, the founder of the Toastmasters Association and the fine wine manager of Coe Vintners.

You will be wined dined, entertained & informed.  A draw will be held on the evening for those wishing to take part in the sabrage.

The menu for the evening is as follows:

Canapes:
Spicy tomato fondue in a filo cup
Lightly curried chickpea fritter
Crostini, anchovy butter, smoked halibut

Champagne:
Dampierre Cuvee Des Ambassadeurs ler Cru NV

To Start:
Crab quinelle, scallops, pancetta, pea puree and pea shoots

‘V’ Goat’s cheese panna cotta, tapenade, rocket, confit cherry tomatoes

Wine:
Chateau Tour de Calens Blanc, Graves 2009

Main:
Rack of lamb, crispy sweetbreads, buttered fennel,
potato galette

‘V’ Blue cheese, roasted pear and walnut filo tart,
wilted chard and broad bean puree

Wine:
Chateau Viex Lartigue, Grand Cru St Emilion 2007

Dessert:
Minted raspberry brulee, strawberry granite, shortbread

Wine:
Gewurztraminer VV Vendange Tardive, Zind Humbrecht 2010

A choice of Grand Cru Coffees or Leaf Teas

Whisky’s:
Glenkinchie 12 year old (delicate)
Talisker 10 year old (smoky)
The Singleton of Dufftown 12 year old (rich) Dalwhinnie 15 year old (fruity)

£59.95 Per Person

For booking and full details, visit The County Hotel website.

The Bell Inn – Horndon on the Hill

The first benchmark ‘gastro pub’ in Essex, The Bell has character, history, and it’s a classic. Based in the small Essex village of Horndon, The Bell is a get away from it all destination, it’s like going back in time, a big sigh of stress release. Think open fires, original well worn timber structures, warmth and hospitality, in keeping with its 18th century history.

The dishes here are comforting, yet refined; they sit pretty on the plate. The menu is classically inspired and draws influence from French, and Italian cuisines, with just a hint of Japanese and Indian, as well as, and not least, the best of British. Changes are made to the menu daily, although you can of course see today’s menu (pdf) on their website.

The rooms have individual character, all comfortable and colourful, with some well thought out surprises – whatever you fancy – from 2 floors where you can lounge, before climbing the spiral staircase to sprawl; a room with a pretty four-poster bed and an amazing view of the distant fields; a crackling open fire, or a free-standing roll top bath, just waiting to be filled.

Le Bouchon – Heybridge,Maldon

A grade II listed building, recently modernised and refurbished into a ‘boutique’ hotel and brasserie. The executive head chef, Jonathan Brown, has won many local accolades, including ‘Essex Chef of the Year’ in his former residence as chef/patron of the Ducane Arms in Great Braxted. This is a place to relax and unwind, eat well and chat intimately in the spacious restaurant area without fear of being overheard.

As you would expect from a brasserie, the menu draws upon classic French dishes, adding just a few modern twists of flavour and technique, whilst respecting what is good. Jonathan is an ingredients man, so you can expect full flavoured cuts of local meat, game and poultry, and beautifully fresh fish and seafood. Check out their menu here.

The rooms are modern, comfortable, and femininely attractive, with hints of French regency in the furniture. Flock wallpaper, rustic open timber, rich coloured cushions and satin throws, and even showers big enough for two…

1935 Rooftop Restaurant & Bar & Holiday Inn(!) – Southend Airport

This completely sound proofed hotel and rooftop restaurant opened in October 2012, following a £10 million build. With views over the surrounding airport, you can watch the planes land and depart into the night sky. Still a reasonably quiet airport, the panoramic views at night are quite beautiful. It’s just a quick stroll from the railway station too, so one for the non-drivers, or those that like a champagne breakfast.

The head chef, Kieron Moore was classically trained under Marco Pierre White, and brings with him a wealth of experience. The simple seasonal menu features a number of traditional Brit dishes – taken up a notch, well aged steaks, and some wonderful slow cooked and braised warmers. Fish and seafood lovers may be a little disappointed in the choice available, which is a shame, as there is so much local seafood available in the area. You can check out their menu on this page (pdf).

For a Holiday Inn, the rooms shift away from the typical hamster cage feel, and offer warmth and modern comfort. Of course, they are designed for work, rest and play, although if you want a little more luxury, upgrade to a ‘king superior’ room and leave the work behind. This Holiday Inn is also dog friendly, if you want to treat your pooch to a night away from it all… This excites me; it shouldn’t, though it does!

The Mistley Thorn – Mistley, near Manningtree

The coastal village of Mistley is charming, peaceful and very pretty. Perched on the River Stour Estuary, the architecture is rich in Georgian and Victorian style. It’s the kind of place that you would want to stay overnight and book the next day off to walk around the quay, surrounding woodlands, independent cafes and shops, and of course, the swan fountain, which happens to be just opposite the warm and inviting Mistley Thorn.

The Thorn was the first Essex restaurant to receive the bib gourmand Michelin accolade for good cuisine at a reasonable price. As a coastal restaurant, the menu specialises in fantastic local fresh fish, simple dishes with an emphasis on flavour. If you want to get your teeth into something meatier, the steaks are from Red Poll beef – nice. Online sample menu is here (pdf).

The rooms offer classic comfort and scenic views. Large baths and power showers, king size and super king beds; the Thorn provides understated luxury in a beautiful setting. They take breakfast seriously too, which is always a welcome bonus.

The Bull & Willow Room – Great Totham

This restored 16th century Inn, surrounded by rural views, offers both relaxed informal dining in the pub area, and finer dining in the restaurant area, where you can don your glad rags and bathe under the soft light of the candelabras. Dean Ager will be making an appearance on Valentine’s evening with his crooning Rat Pack show.

The menu celebrates the best cuts of meat, prime seafood and interesting twists on flavour. The ingredients are sourced from some of the best local farms and suppliers. You can view their valentines menu here (pdf).

The rooms are housed in a renovated cottage on the grounds. They are comfortable, individually styled, finished with simple and contemporary furnishings, and offer great views over the surrounding countryside. A decent breakfast is served in the ‘gastro’ bar, come the morning, I wonder how much you have to tip to get room service?

If you have overindulged during the Festive period and require a dietary pick-me-up, this simple, healthy and very tasty Kedgeree inspired dish, may be just what you need.  Smoky fish, eggs and spices, balanced with sweet peas and a fresh squeeze of lemon juice, well, no wonder this dish has lasted the test of time.  Kedgeree is more than a breakfast dish of yesteryear; it makes a great lunch, dinner or supper.

I have changed just a couple of ingredients from my normal Kedgeree recipe (was a favourite dish of mine cooked by my Mum when I were a kid) to boost the health giving properties of the dish, yet maintain the great flavours.

Instead of using smoked haddock, I’ve used smoked mackerel for its high omega 3 fatty acids and reasonable price.   I don’t know about you, although at this time of year I want to improve my energy AND bank balance, following the Christmas splurge.  Mackerel being oilier than haddock helps to flavour the rice.

Instead of basmati rice, I use short grain brown rice (preferably organic) which is not only a good source of fibre and B vitamins essential for releasing energy from your food and improving your nervous system function, but this small whole grain also helps the movement of material through your digestive system; particularly useful if you are feeling sluggish and bloated – nice.  Brown rice also brings with it a slight nutty taste that works well.

OK.  Enough on the whys and wherefores and onto the recipe…